Learning how to clicker train

There are a lot of guides out there for how to clicker train, but this is mine.

My post on Operant Conditioning might help you to understand more about how clicker training (a kind of positive reinforcement) works, but it isn’t required reading to understand this post.

As stated elsewhere on this blog, I’m relatively new to training dogs. So I’m learning too! But I’ve had a lot of success with training Buddy to lie down and sit, and I’m currently working on a few more tricks. I was amazed how easily he picked things up once he made the connection between the click and the treat.

 

Why clicker train?

Positive reinforcement is a widely-preferred method of training dogs and other animals… but why use a clicker to do it?

The simple answer is that a clicker makes positive reinforcement easier to apply, and more effective. Unlike a human voice, a clicker doesn’t have a varied tone, which can confuse an animal. It’s also hard to say things at the exact same time, every time.

The click is given at the exact moment your dog performs the behaviour you want them to repeat. The click marks the behaviour. The reward does not. The reward is given afterwards.

Instead of tossing a treat towards your pet, or frantically rummaging in your pockets to find one before they stop displaying the behaviour you like, you can click, letting your dog know to expect a reward, and then give it. It makes things far less hectic, in my experience.

 

How to start:

First, you will need:

  • a clicker (easily available from Amazon and many many pet stores)
  • a supply of treats/pieces of dry food to reward your dog

The first step is associating the ‘click’ noise with the food reward. How long it takes depends on the individual dog, but for mine it took 2-3 sessions.

 

Steps to associating the clicker with the reward:

  1. Choose a calm, quiet environment to begin. Your dog will be distracted if he is outside at the park, or there are people running about everywhere. Some people additionally recommend starting after your dog has been on a walk (so they won’t be hyper and focus on you more easily) and/or before a meal (so the treats will be more motivating).
  2. Get the clicker, and your treats. Make sure your pet is awake and alert.
  3. Click and then offer a treat immediately after.
  4. Repeat this over and over until the dog looks to you expecting the treat after she hears the click.

It’s that simple. Eventually your dog will come to learn that ‘click’ = ‘treat’, and will happily repeat the behaviours that get them rewarded.

 

Tips:

  • Don’t take the word ‘treats’ literally. When you’re going to be rewarding frequently (and in the beginning stages of clicker training, you will be) it’s often best to just take a fraction of your dog’s normal dried food and offer that every time you click. I use 1/3rd usually – 1/3rd for a morning meal, 1/3rd for the evening, and 1/3rd for clicker training. Later on you may want to use richer treats as a ‘jackpot’ or in distracting situations, but for right now dry food should be fine.
  • Try to vary the timing and method of how you deliver the treats. Sometimes offer them in your hand, sometimes toss them nearby, sometimes immediately, sometimes after a few seconds. The reason for that is twofold. First of all, there will be situations where you cannot reach a treat immediately, and it is useful to train your dog to wait for a reward. Secondly, focusing so hard on making sure you give a treat RIGHT NOW NOW NOW can make you stressed out and make your pooch uneasy, while also meaning you’re paying less attention to the things that really matter.
  • Make sure when you’re in this initial stage, you’re not inadvertantly rewarding negative behaviours. A common boo-boo would be starting when your dog is looking up at you, begging for some of your lunch or dinner. It seems like a perfect opportunity, since you have your dog’s focus, but when you click and treat them for it, you’re encouraging the (likely unwanted) begging.
  • It’s better to have a lot of short sessions than one longer one. It will be more effective to click and treat 5 times in a session with breaks in between, than to click over and over until the dog is bored.
  • …But also keep an eye on your dog’s response. When I first started clicker training I made the mistake of stretching the induction period over several days, clicking and treating my dog for nothing long after she understood that ‘click’ = treat. Once you’re certain your dog has made that connection, don’t keep arbritraily C+Ting. It’s pointless at best, and at worst can slow training once it begins.

Clicker training is something that seems tricky at first, but is actually incredibly simple once you start. Anybody can do it – don’t be intimidated!

Look out for my later posts on using clicker training to teach your dog to give eye contact on hearing their name, and teaching ‘sit’!

Waggy tails and happy trails,

TDK XX

Training your Dog with Operant Conditioning

Introduction:

There are four quadrants of operant conditioning, which is when you provide consequences in order to increase or decrease behaviours. They are: positive and negative reinforcement, and positive and negative punishment.

Reinforcement is a consequence applied to encourage a behaviour; punishment is a consequence applied to discourage a behaviour. Positive refers to adding a stimulus, while negative refers to removing a stimulus:

 

Positive reinforcement:

Positive reinforcement is when you add a reward (usually a treat, but sometimes toys or interaction with an owner) to encourage a behaviour. You are teaching your dog ‘when I do this, I am rewarded’ so they will try doing it again. Clicker training, which I use, is an easy way to positively reinforce behaviours you want to see from your dog.

Examples: Your dog comes when you call his name, so you give him a treat. He may come more frequently, because he associates coming when called with being rewarded.

Your dog jumps up at you when you get home and you pet and speak to her soothingly (‘It’s okay, Daddy’s home now, calm down’). Now the dog has learned there is a positive reward for her behaviour (jumping up) and will do it again.

 

Negative reinforcement:

Negative reinforcement is removing unwanted stimulus (pain, loud noise, bad smells, etc.) in order to reward for performing a desirable action. It operates by teaching the dog ‘when I do this, what is upsetting me goes away’, leading to the repetition of the behaviour.

Examples: Your dog wears a collar which causes discomfort when she pulls on the leash. When the leash is slack, she is rewarded by the removal of discomfort, and learns it is nicer for her to not use up all the slack when walking.

Your dog is approached by an annoying child who insists on putting their hands in his face. The dog bites the child, making them retreat, crying. The dog has learned that biting gets rid of the unwanted attention, and will likely do it again.

 

Positive punishment:

Positive punishment is adding a negative stimulus (pain, loud noises, etc.) to discourage a dog from performing an undesirable action. It teaches the dog ‘doing this causes an undesirable result, so I should not do it again’.

Examples: Your dog starts chewing on your carpet. When you see, you make a jarring noise, and the dog stops. You make the noise whenever you see the dog chewing something he shouldn’t be. The dog learns that chewing the carpet when you are around results in an unpleasant noise, and avoids it.

Your dog escapes your yard and runs down the street. You finally manage to coax her back with some tasty food, but when she comes, you smack her across the nose to ‘punish’ her for running away in the first place. Unintentionally you have taught her that it is best not to return to you even when food is offered, as you may hurt her.

 

Negative punishment:

Negative punishment is removing a positive stimulus in order to discourage an undesirable action. It teaches the dog ‘when I do this, the fun stops’.

Examples: Your dog plays with you excitedly. As soon as you feel skin hit your teeth, you get up and walk away, ending the game. The dog learns that playtime ends if she bites or mouths you.

Your dog is gnawing a bone when your mother comes to visit. Since you want the dog to pay attention to your mother and not his treat, you take the bone away. Your dog has learned that guests arriving = the removal of treats.

 

Which is best?

Each kind of operant conditioning can yield positive results or unintentional negative ones, as shown above. The truth is, to have a well-trained dog you are likely to need to use a combination of quadrants. Each quadrant has drawbacks:

  • Positive punishment – Rated as the most intrusive on the Humane Hierarchy of dog training. Positive punishment can be relatively mild (making a displeased noise), but it’s also where abusive and extreme methods lie (slapping your dog, ‘alpha rolls’, etc.) It can also be difficult to apply correctly/make your dog understand why it is receiving the punishment. It must be applied IMMEDIATELY.
  • Negative reinforcement – Can often be considered cruel and increase stress in a dog, which in turn is not beneficial for training, often making this method unreliable. An example would be fitting a dog with an uncomfortable prong collar. The hope is they will learn not pulling stops the discomfort. However the dog may become too stressed to learn, it may take a long time to understand, the dog may associate pain/discomfort with the walker/owner instead of pulling, etc.
  • Positive reinforcement – Rated the least intrusive method of all the quadrants. Generally not considered cruel at all, but it can be difficult to reward the correct behaviours at the right time, and teach the dog which behaviours you actually want.
  • Negative punishment – The main issue with negative punishment is that it must be applied consistently, which can be tricky. An animal who receives positive reinforcement for a behaviour 1/10 times and negative punishment 9/10 times will keep ‘gambling’ on the chance that this time their behaviour will be rewarded. For instance if you try to teach your dog to be calm when you get home by ignoring when he jumps up at you when you get home, but every so often you forget to be consistent and give him affection when he does it, he may repeat the behaviour.

My experience and combining the quadrants:

In my experience it is generally more effective to rely mostly upon positive reinforcement, with other methods of training supporting it. Not only is it the least intrusive method, and made easy through clicker training, it also prompts the dog to try more things in order to seek a reward.

A dog who is trained only through punishment or negative reinforcement may stop exhibiting novel behaviours and avoid doing anything that could possibly lead to a punishment. That’s why positive reinforcement is the method I use most.

Here, I’ll give some examples of how I use combinations of the quadrants to train our dogs:

  1. Buddy begins chewing the carpet. I tell him ‘no!’ sharply (positive punishment), making him stop suddenly. I offer a more appropriate chew toy (redirection – another element of good training!), and when he happily chews that I praise him heavily for it (positive reinforcement).
  2. Lacy sees another dog she wants to play with, and begins barking excitedly. I turn and lead her away from the dog, removing the stimulus/opportunity to play (negative punishment). When Lacy encounters another dog and wags politely, I praise her and allow her to go play with them (positive reinforcement).
  3. Both older dogs like to pull on the leash. When they get to the end, I stand still so they experience the uncomfortable pressure of the leash becoming taut (negative reinforcement) and cease interacting with them (negative punishment). When they move backwards I praise and reward them (positive reinforcement) when the leash is slacker.

As you can see, even when I use other sections of the quadrant to train our dogs, I always ultimately fall back on positive reinforcement. Everybody has their own method of training, but it’s my belief that the best methods rely heavily on positive reinforcement and not punishment.

Hopefully this helps you to understand the quadrants of operant conditioning and how to use them! Next week I’ll post about classical conditioning and how it can help with other issues, and on Thursday I’ll share an introduction to clicker training.

Waggy tails and happy trails,

TDK XX

Sugar’s first day home!

 

As promised, here is the update on bringing Sugar home. The photos above are of her Mommy and Daddy – a Staffordshire Bull Terrier and a Jack Russell. I’d never seen a black Jack Russell before I met Rocky (Sugar’s Dad), but he looks gorgeous!

The ‘breeder’ Suzanne told us this was an accidental litter – Rocky was neutered 6 weeks after the puppies were born. Mum’s expressed doubt about that but I like to give people the benefit of the doubt, and it was nice to meet both sire and dam at the same time. Rocky and I had a fun little tussle on the floor – I hope Sugar ends up with some of his playful temperament!

Sugar was the last puppy left when we went and picked her up. Despite being weaned for over a week, greedy Sugar kept returning to the (now-dry) milkbar during our visit. I guess she was glad not to have to share any more!

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Sugar looks so much like her dad in terms of color. I think she might eventually look more like her Mum physically, since she’s about her Dad’s size right now. Several times I got them confused when they were both running about.

 

We had a pretty uneventful car journey home. Sugar was surprisingly quiet and calm for most of the journey, although she did have a little piddly accident halfway through (we planned for that by putting her on a puppy pad covered with a towel).

However juuuuuuust as we were turning onto our street… Sugar threw up. Multiple times, haha. I guess it was a pretty long ride for her, luckily we won’t have to travel that far often.

The cat was suitably shocked/terrified when she saw Sugar – we had planned to introduce them gradually, but whoops, she met us at the front door. Buddy was actually DELIGHTED to meet Sugar, but she wasn’t too sure at first. After a little while they were playing happily, though.

It’s been a super busy day of looking after puppies and helping Sugar settle in, so I’ll leave you with my favourite photo of us together so far:

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Until next time,

Waggy tails and happy trails,

TDK XX

(p.s. in case you think getting a new puppy is all fun and games, here’s a recording of what Sugar sounds like. At 1am.)

First Post – meet Buddy and Sugar!

Whoop! I write this in high spirits 12 hours before we go and pick up our new puppy, Sugar! Above are the first pictures of both Buddy and Sugar we ever got. The first is the image of Buddy that made my Mum fall in love with him. The second is the pic we took at the breeder’s house.

How did it happen?

At some point I’ll probably write a longer post about how we adopted both of our doggies, but for now I’ll just write a simple explanation.

I went to stay with my BFF for a week, and when I was on my way home, this text exchange happened:

bustime

So that was pretty huge news to me because I’ve been begging my Mum for AGES to get a dog… Saying it would be great company for her, but if I’m completely honest I wanted to have a pup in the house! Our cat is great – but dogs are much better ;3

Mum was always adamant she’d get an older dog between 1-4 years so I was surprised to hear she was considering a puppy. I got home and she told me she wasn’t just looking at one dog, but two – the other one was ‘Donny’, who later became Buddy. We drove to see Sugar and picked her out of the two remaining female puppies, and then after some debate my Mom decided to go for Buddy, too.

Buddy’s been living here for just over a week now and is settling in well, if a little scared of our cat. I’ll post photo updates of them both together later today…

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A more recent photo of Buddy! :3

Waggy tails and happy trails,

TDK XX